Project ‘Swaziland’

By Antonette Gaffney

My adventure began with my arrival into Swaziland’s international airport. Tired and exhausted from 25 hours of flying, I was very much looking forward to being collected by a representative from SWANNEPHA (Swaziland’s National Network of People Living with HIV/AIDS), checking into my accommodation and having a nice, long, uninterrupted nap. However, as I stepped out of the single-room airport and collected my bags, I was unsettled by the fact I couldn’t see my name on any of the boards. After 50 minutes ticked by I realised that my nap would have to wait...they had forgotten to collect me at the airport!

It was through this experience – my very first in Africa – that I learnt two very important lessons about life the Swaziland: an understanding of ‘Africa time’ and the kind nature of the Swazi people.

Namathemba giving the 'thumbs up' to the condom donations by Australian Therapeutic Supplies Pty Ltd.	John (from the Sofanini HIV/AIDS drop-in centre) pleased with the printer donated by Toner Cartridge Plus +.

As I continued to wait anxiously, a lady nearby recognised my obvious distress and came to my assistance. She used her personal phone to contact the SWANNEPHA office. It was through this call that I learnt my first lesson. I had not been forgotten by SWANNEPHA, but had merely been a victim of ‘Africa Time’. ‘Africa Time’ operates quite differently to what we are used to in Australia. It is a concept of time where 10 minutes is equivalent to an hour, a 9am appointment means midday, and ‘I’m almost there’ means, ‘I’m about to leave the house’!  Although difficult and frustrating at first, I soon adjusted and began to appreciate the relaxed and calm manner in which the Swazi people conduct themselves.

It was through the kindness of this stranger where I learnt my second lesson.  Despite the fact I had never met her before, she had used her personal phone to make arrangements for me, organised for me to stay in the airport VIP lounge while I awaited collection, and gave me her contact number and address in case I needed any future assistance. While I was completely overwhelmed with this stranger’s generosity, I was quick to discover that this helpful and generous attitude was not limited to this woman alone, but was ingrained in the Swazi culture. Time and time again can I recall these traits in action: from being walked to the bus stop by strangers so I wouldn’t get lost, being welcomed into a village as if I had lived there for years, or even having a local Swazi pay for the rest of my grocery shopping because I was short! In my entire life I have never experienced such warm-heartedness and generosity. It is a testament to the kind and benevolent spirit of the Swazi people and a credit to who they are.

The SWANNEPHA office and its staff furthered this impression in my mind. From the moment I arrived at the office, I was welcomed with open arms, gratitude and acceptance. All the SWANNEPHA employees treated me as if I was an ‘official’ member of the organisation and took the time to involve me in HIV/AIDS activities, conferences and developments. They even allowed me the opportunity to participate in official staff trainings and seminars so that I could gain a better understanding of their work and the role they play within Swaziland’s HIV/AIDS community. Furthermore, I was fortunate enough to meet with Mr Abdoulaye Balde – Country Director for the World Food Programme in Swaziland. In this meeting we discussed the current situation of HIV/AIDS in Swaziland, the important roles that organisations such as SWANNEPHA play in controlling this epidemic, and brainstormed ways in which to make ‘The Swaziland Project’ I developed, a sustainable and long-term venture. Mr Balde’s commitment and dedication to his work and improving the Swazi way of life was evident in every word he spoke and was truly inspirational. I must admit it was also a thrill to ride in an ‘official’ WFP vehicle, where I even had to sign a waiver to step foot inside it!

A group photo with some of the SWANNEPHA staff members	Unpacking the donations from the members of Recreation Health Clubs (Sandringham & Hampton) with the staff and executive director of SWANNEPHA (Thembi Nkambule - far right)

In addition to these activities, my time at SWANNEPHA included the development of community projects and assisting in grant and proposal writing. One of the main projects I was involved in was the development of a HIV/AIDS drop-in centre in Swaziland’s Lobombo region. This region which has been plagued by poverty, lack of education and a devastatingly high HIV/AIDS infection rate is in desperate need of attention and development. Consequently, this project aims to give the people within this region accessed to HIV/AIDS information, medication, trained professionals and a safe place to spend time where they will not be judged or victimised for their condition. It is within this scope that SWANNEPHA endeavours to reduce HIV infection rates in the community, encourage the open discussion of topics typically considered ‘socially inappropriate’ and reduce stigma and discrimination.

While I thoroughly enjoyed participating in these activities, my favourite role with SWANNEPHA was visiting the rural communities and projects. It was these visits that confirmed to me the dedication, perseverance and spirit of the Swazi people. On our visit to the village of Sigombeni in Swaziland’s Manzini region, I attended a meeting with a women’s sewing co-operative. While the meeting was predominantly in the national language – SiSwati – the story my ‘translator’ told me regarding these women and their community, instilled me with such admiration and respect. This town, highly plagued by high HIV/AIDS infection rates, had previously been in desperate need of self-generating projects that could bring money into the community. Tired of relying on international aid, a few women grouped together and decided to take responsibility for their own community. From this attitude, they developed a system where each woman would contribute one rand (about 10c AUD) each week into a ‘money pool’. They continued this process and after 8 months they had saved enough to buy their first sewing machine. They decided they could make clothing and uniforms for the local hospital and schools as a means of generating income for their community. After saving for another few months, they had enough money to buy material and begin their project. Now - a few year on - these women have 8 sewing machines, are making clothing for a large number of surrounding schools and hospitals, have chickens, bicycles and their own crops. More than they had ever dreamt of!

Additionally, upon my visit to Lugongolwane Primary School in rural northern Swaziland I learned that agriculture studies formed a large part of their curriculum. As part of these studies, students from the older year levels are given individual plots of land where they must grow and tend to their own vegetables and plants. A fairly recent initiative at the school, this system teaches students responsibility as well as gives them food to take home and eat – something extremely valuable to children living in this region.

	Each day, students on 'cooking duty' will cook lunch for the rest of the children in the school. Usually it will consist of beans and 'pap' (a thick, white, starchy substance made from maize) and for some students will be the only meal they eat all day.	A senior student watering his plot of land  - part of the school's agriculture program.

Such examples highlight why the Swazi people are recognised by neighbouring countries as unique, dedicated and inspirational. Crime is low, a helping hand is never far away and the people are dedicated to advancing their social standing. However, despite these achievements there is still one issue that seriously threatens to Swazi way of live – the increasing prevalence of HIV/AIDS.

The prevalence of HIV/AIDS in Swaziland has now peaked at 42.2% making it the highest cause of death in the Kingdom. Some of the reasons for this include:

• Pastors from churches often instruct infected members of their congregation to refuse medication from doctors, instructing them that ‘God will save them, not chemicals or medicine’.
• A misunderstanding and distrust of condoms. (Eg: They do not allow male genitals to ‘breathe’ properly, they can cause worms, they are a Western invention and are ‘un-Swazi’)
• The belief that having intercourse with children and virgins will effectively ‘cleanse’ men of the virus.
• The huge amount of stigma associated with being ‘seen’ entering or exiting a testing clinic. Regardless of the results, they are labelled ‘infected’. Consequently, people would rather prefer not to get tested at all to avoid stigmatisation and embarrassment.

However, while these reports make the situation appear dire, organisations such as SWANNEPHA are working tirelessly in their efforts to reduce stigma, encourage adherence to treatment and promote the open discussion of HIV/AIDS. Their main focus is public education. Through a number of public education programs, these organisations endeavour to: promote ways to reduce HIV infection, encourage testing, ensure medication is taken correctly and regularly, and encourage people to respect, accept and support those living with HIV/AIDS. Through these support programs, Swaziland’s HIV/AIDS organisations hope to reduce the stigma and discrimination surrounding this issue and hope to instil a more positive and responsible approach to HIV prevention.

In summary, Swaziland is a country to watch in upcoming years. The rich culture, the diverse and beautiful landscape and the warmth of the people make Swaziland a paradise in the midst of the turmoil and conflict that is often associated with Africa. From the perseverance, courage and sense of national pride that I have witnessed firsthand, I have no doubts that Swaziland will successfully extricate itself from the devastation of HIV/AIDS and continue to be an inspiration and role model to its neighbours.